Mold Prevention Maintenance for Home Interior

Attic

Because the attic is not accessed regularly, homeowners often fail to recognize when they have a growing moisture and mold problem in there. Many of these problems stem from improperly ventilated dryers and fans. Be sure to check your attic regularly. If it's rusty and musty, you might have a host of moisture problems to contend with.

Look for water stains on the underside of the roof, rusted nails and discolored mildewed sections on any surface. If you find any of these moisture warning signs, look for the source of the moisture. These could be from water leaks or a faulty ventilation fan that is directing moist air into the attic space instead of to the outside. Call in expert advice if the situation appears severe.
Minor surface mildew (up to 10 square feet) should first be killed using Oxy-Mold MX-500 then wiped or vacuumed clean. When the cleaned area has dried, treat all structural surfaces including paper backed insulation with Protex 63™.
Painting over a mildew problem is unlikely to check the growth of the mildew.
If an HVAC air handler is located in the attic space, make sure that the drip pan is free to drain to the outside. Pouring a gallon or two of diluted Protex 63™ (4 fl.oz. / gal. water) into the drip pan and down the drain every six months will help.
Check that vents at the eaves are unobstructed by insulation and that there is room for air to flow into the attic space from the eaves and out through the upper roof vents.
Attic baffles can be purchased at lumberyards to allow airflow.
Inspect the amount of insulation in your attic. If you can see the wood framing between rows of insulation, you probably need more insulation.
Check to make sure all bathrooms, kitchen, and other exhaust ducts are vented to the outside and check for leaks and blockages.

Kitchens/Baths/Laundry

These areas are more subject to moisture build up than any other rooms in the home and require special observation. The ceilings, walls and floors are all prime targets for hidden mold and mildew growth from improperly vented or functioning exhaust fans, pipe leaks and condensation. Mold can grow unseen and unnoticed in these spaces until major remediation is required. If any "moldy", "musty" odors arte noticed begin inspections right away. If the odors persist and no source is found call a Certified Mold Inspector.

General Operational Recommendations

Install exhaust fans in the kitchen, laundry and all bath rooms including those with windows to the outside.
Vent all exhaust fans to the outside.
Include timers on all exhaust fans and set them to run while the bathroom is being used, laundry is being done and meals re being cooked. Set the timers to run for 20 min. after the activity in the room is done.

Care & Maintenance

Replace discolored, cracked, or worn caulk around plumbing fixtures, paying close attention to the tub/shower enclosure.
Remove all old caulk using chemical caulk remover, putty knife, or other blunt-end, thin tool. Never apply fresh caulk over older caulk. Wipe away any soap scum. Clean area with Oxy-Mold MX-500 . Fill the tub or sink with water. The weight will stretch the gap between the fixture and the wall. Using a caulk gun held at 45 degrees and mold resistant caulk, push the bead ahead of the nozzle. Use a spoon dipped in soapy water to apply a smooth finish before the caulk cures.
Check the grout around wall and floor tiles, especially in tiled showers. Replace grout as needed. Kill active mold growth with Oxy-Mold MX-500 the clean with Procleans O-2™. When dry, apply Protex 2000. Reapply as necessary every 90 to 180+ days.
Check seal between sanitary fixtures and floor and make sure hold down nuts are tight.
Check under sink drains and water lines for leaks.
Check faucets for leaks and drips.
Make sure the clothes washer drain is operating properly.
Once each year remove plumbing access panels and check for leaks or signs of mold or mildew.
Check water heater for drips or leaks and make sure overflow relief valve is vented to the outside.

Basement

A "mold free" basement begins with proper design and construction.

Design Guidelines

Waterproof all exterior wall surfaces which will be below grade.
If the normal ground water level is at the same grade as the bottom of the footing, exterior perimeter drains should be installed outside and at least 6" below the top of the footing. This drainage water should be "daylighted" at an elevation that allows for proper removal of the water by gravitational flow.
The basement floor slab should be underlain by a vapor barrier which in turn is underlain by a 6" gravel or stone drainage bed. A perforated pipe perimeter drain should be installed in the edge of the drainage bed adjacent to the inside of the footing. This drain should be led to a sump pump which discharges outside and away from the foundation walls.

Care & Maintenance

Check exterior walls and the floor slab for cracks. Monitor any cracks for signs of water intrusion or continued widening. Should either condition be regularly observed, a Home Inspector, architect or structural engineer should be consulted.
Chuck floor and walls for condensation or "sweating". This condition may usually be corrected by the operation of a dehumidifier. The dehumidifier should drain to the sump pump.
Check any exhaust ducts (from dryers etc.) to make sure that a are free to discharge outside.
Check for faucets and pipes.
Check for condensate on cold water lines and insulate if necessary.
Make sure that window wells do not drain into the basement.
Kill active mold growth with Oxy-Mold MX-500™ then clean with Procleans O-2™. When dry, apply Protex 2000™ to ceiling, walls and floor. Reapply as necessary every 2 to 3+ years.

Crawlspace

Mold in the crawl space is one of the top three mold problems common to a home, affecting 1 in 3 crawl spaces in the United States. Left untreated the health effects can be disastrous to you and your family.

If you have mold in your crawl space or suspect it, it is a good idea to do a mold test inside your home for mold. The mold from your crawl space may have infected your home from small drafts and HVAC systems which blow spores throughout your home.

Maintaining a dry crawlspace free from the growth of mold and mildew is a real challenge. The design of crawlspaces has undergone many changes over the years and is just now reaching a stage of functionality.

Current thinking has moved toward designing the crawlspace as if it is another climate controlled room of the structure, a miniature basement.

If your home is new and the builder has not included a mold prevention program during construction, you might follow the procedure in the Protect section below.

Inspection

Check for mold and mildew growth on wood joists, foundation walls and paper backed insulation.

Options

If no mold is visible, there is no musty odor and the space seems dry, you may follow the Protect procedure in the Treat and Protect sections which follows.
If no mold is visible, but the area has a musty odor and feels damp follow the recommendations in the Treat and Protect sections which follows.
If mold growth is visible in small areas totaling less than 10 square feet, you may wish to have the space inspected by a Certified Mold Inspector and follow his/her recommendations. You can engage the services of a Certified Mold Remediators or follow the guidelines under the section Remediation below.
If mold and mildew growth is visible in excess of 10 square feet, arrange for the services of a Certified Mold Inspector.

Some improvements can be made with existing crawlspaces to help prevent mold problems and the crawlspace will remain drier if the following precautions are observed:

Fix the problem that led to the mold growth.

Mold in the crawl space is generally caused by increased humidity and moisture.
The source of the moisture can be from the ground in the crawl space.
Missing, disrupted or improperly installed plastic sheeting.
Leaking pipes and drains.
Exhaust or dryer vents discharging into the crawlspace instead of to the outside.
Condensate from HVAC condenser discharging in crawlspace.
"Sweating" pipes or duct lines.
Ground water table at or near the ground level of the crawlspace floor.
Surface water not draining away from foundation walls.
Crawl space vents may either be closed or there may be too few vents to support the moisture in the crawl space.
A dehumidifier may be required if there are no vents.
ALL crawl spaces equipped with vents must be vented properly, even during the winter. A common misnomer is that the crawl space vents should be shut during the winter season. This is not true. As moisture builds in the space, mold will form on the ground, floor joists, plywood, or any organic material which serves as food for mold. This can lead to mold spores migrating into the home and can potentially, if left untreated cause a total loss of a home from severe mold infestation.

Remediation

Before entering an area infested with mold, you'll need personal protection equipment (PPE): P100 respirator, gloves, goggles, protective clothing (coveralls with hood). In lesser mold infestations a tyvek isn't necessary. You just want to make sure you keep mold spores and chemicals from reaching your skin.
Remove all insulation, seal in plastic bags and take to disposal site.
Get the area as dry as possible before starting your remediation project or it will not be a successful remediation. You must either pump out standing water (if you can see it), and then start the process of drying out the space by using at least two fans. One to circulate the air inside the area (more fans may be required for larger areas, and another fan to pump inside air outside of the crawl space. Some remediators will bring in a HEPA filters or positive air machines during this process to prevent mold spores from moving inside the home and outside of the crawl space. Some crawl spaces will require the use of a dehumidifier to remove excess water from the space.
Some crawl spaces may need to have new 6 mil plastic placed down over the dirt after the remediation process is completed.
Some crawl spaces may have to be concreted in to prevent water from entering the crawl space. (This is common in wet, swampy areas of the country). The installation of a sump pump is recommended in such cases.
When HVAC systems and ducting are run under a crawl space, it is possible that the mold may have penetrated into the HVAC system and therefore blown around the entire home. The home and HVAC should be thoroughly tested for mold. You can order a mold test at this link. If there are elevated levels of mold present in the home, it may be necessary to remediate the home as well.

Treat and Protect

All surfaces of the crawlspace must be treated with a fungicide to kill the mold Make sure that the space is as dry as possible (below 30% relative humidity) before starting the work, so that the EPA registered fungicide Oxy-Mold MX-500 ™ can penetrate deeply into the treated surfaces and kill the roots of the mold effectively.
All surfaces (dirt, visqueen (plastic), all floor joists, and foundation walls) must be treated with two full treatments of Oxy-Mold MX-500 ™ letting it dry in between each treatment.
Oxy-Mold MX-500 ™ may be applied by low pressure spraying or fogging by the homeowner or a CAMPRO Certified Applicator.
Spraying may be done using a pump up "garden sprayer". Spraying is time consuming, physically demanding and requires stringent safety precautions. You must wear full personal protection equipment (PPE): P100 respirator, gloves, goggles, protective clothing (coveralls with hood).
Apply sufficient product to wet all surfaces including the dirt or plastic covered floor.
Fogging disperses atomized product into the crawl space area without the applicator having to enter the crawl space except to position the fogger(s).
When using a fogger such as the Impact 2300 or 2600, break the crawl space area into segments of about 15' x 15' areas. Allow the fogger to run for approximately 45 minutes in each segment. An inexpensive "lamp" timer may be mat be used.
Fill the 1 ½ gallon tank on the unit with properly diluted Oxy-Mold MX-500 ™. Place the fogger near the center of the crawl space and aim the discharge toward the center of the first segment to be treated and leave the crawlspace.
Set the timer for 45 minutes, turn on the fogger and leave the area. If you are going to be in the space while the fogger is running, you must wear protective eyewear and a P-100 rated respirator. Repeat the process for each quadrant, allowing one hour to elapse between the completion of fogging in one segment and the placement of the fogger for the next segment.
No one should be in or near the crawl space while the fogger is running. Do not re-enter the space until the fog has settled for an hour.

Protect

Once existing mold has been killed and all practical measures have been taken to eliminate causative factors, Protex 63™, Protex 2000™, Protex 2000-T ™ or Anti-Growth™ should be applied to all surfaces. The first three may be applied by the homeowner but Anti-Growth™ must be applied by a properly certified applicator from the mold remediation field or a licensed pest control technician.